The Annual Plumbing Checklist for New York Homeowners

Water heater: flush, test, and inspect

Start with the water heater because it works harder than almost any other plumbing appliance. Sediment from well or municipal water settles at the bottom of the tank and forms a barrier between the burner and the water. That reduces efficiency, creates noise, and can lead to overheating that shortens the tank's life.

Attach a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank and run it to a floor drain or outside. Open the valve and let several gallons flush out until the water runs clear. Be careful — the water will be hot. If the drain valve is plastic and brittle, or if sediment has already blocked it, stop and call a professional. Forcing an old valve can cause a leak.

After flushing, test the temperature and pressure relief valve. Lift the lever slightly and let it snap back. You should hear a gurgle as water releases into the drain tube. If nothing happens, the valve may be faulty and should be replaced. Finally, confirm the thermostat is set to 120°F. Higher temperatures waste energy and increase scalding risk. Look for rust streaks or moisture at the base of the tank — both are signs the tank may be near the end of its life.

• Flush several gallons to clear sediment
• Test the temperature and pressure relief valve
• Confirm the thermostat is set to 120°F
• Inspect the base for rust streaks or moisture

Shut-off valves: exercise every one

Every fixture and appliance that uses water should have a working shut-off valve. That includes the main valve, toilet stops, sink stops, washing machine valves, dishwasher supply, refrigerator ice maker, and any outdoor hose bibs with interior shut-offs.

Close each valve fully, then reopen it. It should turn smoothly without excessive force. If it grinds, leaks, or will not reopen, it needs service or replacement. A valve that sits untouched for a decade will seize exactly when you need it in an emergency.

Pay special attention to washing machine valves. The cheap saddle valves used in many older homes are prone to leaking and can fail suddenly. If yours look corroded or are the old-style needle valves, consider upgrading to ball valves.

Leak check: find hidden water waste

Hidden leaks can waste thousands of gallons of water per year and cause structural damage before you notice them. The easiest way to find one is with a two-hour meter test. Make sure no water is being used anywhere in the home, including appliances and ice makers. Read the water meter, wait two hours without using water, then read it again. Any movement means water is going somewhere it should not.

While you are checking, look under every sink for staining, warped cabinet bottoms, or musty smells. Check behind toilets for moisture where the tank meets the bowl. Inspect the base of the toilet for discoloration in the grout or caulk. Look at ceilings below bathrooms and kitchens for water spots.

• Toilet dye test: put food coloring in the tank and check the bowl after 15 minutes
• Inspect washing machine hoses for bulges and replace them every 5 years
• Check the dishwasher and refrigerator supply lines for cracks or corrosion
• Look for water spots on ceilings and walls below plumbing fixtures

Drains and sump pump: keep water moving out

Drains that are not used regularly can dry out and let sewer gases into the home. Fill and drain each fixture to confirm normal flow and to refill traps. Pay special attention to floor drains, guest bathroom sinks, and basement utility sinks that may go weeks without use.

Pour water into unused floor drains until you see it flow freely down the trap. This restores the water seal that blocks sewer gas. If a drain is slow, note it for professional cleaning. Slow drains rarely fix themselves and usually indicate a developing blockage.

Test the sump pump by pouring a bucket of water into the pit. The pump should activate before the water reaches the top and discharge it outside. If the pump does not run, check that it is plugged in and the float moves freely. A failed sump pump during a heavy rainstorm can flood a basement in minutes.

Outdoors: winterize before the first freeze

Outdoor plumbing is the most common source of freeze damage in Putnam County homes. Before the first hard freeze, disconnect and drain every garden hose. A connected hose traps water in the bib and can crack it from the inside, even if the bib is labeled frost-free.

If your hose bibs have interior shut-off valves, close them and open the exterior spigot to drain the remaining water. Leave the spigot open slightly for the winter. Verify that irrigation systems have been blown out with compressed air. A single zone left with water can crack the backflow preventer and valves.

In the spring, check outdoor spigots for drips that appeared over the winter. That is the classic sign of a freeze crack. Also inspect any exposed piping in unheated garages, sheds, or crawl spaces and add insulation where needed.

When to call a professional

This checklist is meant to help you spot problems early. It is not a replacement for professional service when something is wrong. If you find a leak that you cannot explain, a valve that will not operate, a water heater that is rusting, or a sump pump that will not run, call a plumber.

For homes with older plumbing, wells, septic systems, or frequent hard-water issues, an annual professional inspection is a worthwhile investment. A plumber can check pressure, test valves, inspect the water heater, evaluate drains, and look at outdoor plumbing with an experienced eye. Catching one problem early usually pays for the visit.